Plants & Garden

Fruit Trees – Apples

Apples

This is a guide to our dwarf apple tree stock available at Dents. Most of the varieties here, unless stated otherwise, as self sterile meaning that the trees NEED another tree in the same or similar pollination group to them to produce fruit. So, we have provided the information on which pollination groups with a link at the bottom of the article for the list at the RHS website.

We have many varieties and knowing where you are going to plant trees is key to getting a great yield. Take a look at the information below to see which tree suits your needs most!

Check out the “Handy Fruit Hints” at the end of the Apple Info!

Apples-Malus Domestica

 1. Elstar

Elstar is in pollination group 3 as a mid-season blossomer. The fruit produced will be heavy regular flushed apples, which are suitable to be picked from Late October. They have a wonderful sweet but sharp flavour.

elstar

 2. James Grieve

This tree is a partly self-fertile pollination group 3 apple tree. This is a sharp flavoured apple best used in cooking or making juice and cider. This variety is partially self-fertile.

jamesgrieve

 3. Delcorf AKA Estivale

Delcorf is in pollination group 3. The fruit is red and pale green in the Autumn and is a sweet sharp honey taste.

delcorf

 4. Rode Boskoop

This is a very early blossoming tree in pollination group 2. The blossom are pale pink and fruits are red skinned eating apples which are ready to be picked in September. The fruit is tangy and is a good eater but a better cooking apple. (Information on this apple is hard to find, though it appears to be a mutation of the Schone van Boskoop.)

rodeboskoop

5. Cox’s Orange Pippin

This is regarded as one of the best eating apples for its aromatic, fresh and crisp flavour. This is in pollination group 3.

coxsorangepippin

6. Idared

This is a pollination group 2 tree that bares a dessert apple with a crisp, moderate flavour.

idared

7. Jonagold

The fruit quality of this tree is excellent and the yields are very high with young trees coming quickly into fruit. This is in pollination group 3 but requires two different partners to successfully pollinate (triploid).

jonagold

General Advice

(same as the pears and plums article for the most part.)

Before you buy a tree, assess where you are going to put it. Will it be in the sunshine or partial shade? Most of these fruit trees will tolerate partial shade but to really get the best out of your tree, they need to be in full sunshine. This will produce the best and heaviest fruit harvests. If you are going to put it in a container, then you are best planting it with some nutrient rich compost such as John Innes No. 3. If you are placing it directly into the ground, cover the base with mulch to stop weeds and keep in the moisture of the soil for the tree.

For the first couple of years until the root ball is very established, we recommend staking the tree with a stake at a 45 degree angle to give the tree some support from the elements. Put the stake in the ground before you put the tree in, otherwise you may damage the root ball.

We also recommend that in the first and second years of having these trees, you rub off all the blossom that appears on the tree. As encouraging as it is, the blossom and fruit production removes energy from the tree that it would otherwise use to grow its root ball and stems. A well cared for tree means better fruit yields for later years.

All of these trees are self-sterile unless otherwise stated meaning that they need another tree (or sometimes two) to pollinate them and produce fruit. Look at the article from the RHS linked below.

Keep an eye out for late frosts and diseases that may blight your trees. For more information look here.

Look up articles on how to ‘train your tree.’ This may sound strange, but training the tree to five or six non-crossing good sized branches will make a great fruit canopy, help the tree to support the weight of the fruit and also make picking the fruit easier.

Handy Fruit Hints

  • Most apple trees are not self-fertile and require another tree that blossoms during the same period to grow fruit. You do not have to have the trees side by side, or even two in your garden, however to be certain it may be useful to have two varieties to ensure that both can pollinate each other and that your get two yields of fruit.
    Please see our variety pollination table at the bottom of the page for further details.
  •  Apple trees do better in the ground than in a container as they can then build up a large root stock which sustains the tree during the growing season. However, they can be planted in large containers and do well, just be mindful during the fruiting season that they do not fall over.
  • As with all plants, apple trees are susceptible to diseases and fungus. However, keeping an eye on your tree and treating the tree as soon as you can will bring about the best results.
  • Apple trees may need some pruning, especially the fast growers, and it is wise to continue this throughout the growing season. For the first four years, you are training the tree and creating a basic framework that will ensure maximum yield. This type of pruning is fairly severe to ensure that the plant produces an open centred tree. In addition, you want to remove poor quality wood. After four years, the pruning turns to maintenance to create a regular supply of new fruiting wood. This is less severe but you must continue to cut off dead wood and crossing branches.
  • All of the fruit trees listed here are in our Fruit Patio Tree range and are dwarf stock.

       Pollination groups: a list of pollination groups exists on the great RHS website HERE

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2 thoughts on “Fruit Trees – Apples

  1. Pingback: 4 Tips On Getting A Tree To Outlive You | Ground to Ground

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